The trees on this Carmel headland grow wild in only two places on Earth, and that orange fuzz on them isn’t moss
You’ve almost certainly seen a Monterey cypress, even if nobody told you its name. Wild ones, though? Those grow in exactly two places on the planet, and one of them is a half-hour loop ten minutes south of Carmel.
That loop is the Cypress Grove Trail at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, and it’s my favorite short walk on this whole stretch of coast. Twisted trees, glowing orange branches, and cliffs dropping straight into the Pacific, all in under a mile.
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Two native groves on Earth, and this is one of them
The trees on this headland belong to the Allan Memorial Grove, about 15 acres of cypress the Allan family donated to the state in 1933. The only other native grove in the world sits at Cypress Point, just across Carmel Bay.
People were coming out here to gawk at these trees long before there was a park at all. So many showed up that the Allans started charging admission and banned camping back in 1899.
The landscape painter Francis McComas went even further and called Point Lobos the “greatest meeting of land and water in the world.” Bold claim. Stand on the cliffs here for five minutes and you’ll have a hard time arguing.
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That orange fuzz isn’t moss
The first thing you’ll notice inside the grove is the color. Branches and rocks are coated in a velvety, rust-orange layer that looks like moss someone dipped in paprika.
It’s actually an alga called Trentepohlia, and it gets that glow from carotene, the same pigment that makes carrots orange. It makes its own food and doesn’t directly harm the trees, so it’s more roommate than parasite.
Look for the pale, gray-green strands hanging off the branches too. That’s lace lichen, and it’s a sign of excellent air quality, which makes it a handy little health report for the whole forest.
Walking the Cypress Grove Trail
This one’s easy: a 0.8-mile loop that takes about half an hour, longer if you keep stopping for photos (you will). The path winds under those knotted, wind-bent branches, then opens up to cliff-edge views over coves where the water turns a ridiculous shade of green.
There are some stairs along the way, and the trail can feel narrow when it’s busy. I’ve hiked Point Lobos twice now, and this loop is the one I’d pick if you only have time for a single trail. If you want the whole park, here’s our full Point Lobos hike guide.
Why go now? The cold, upwelled ocean water that feeds the summer fog here runs from roughly February through September. Once fall hits, the crowds thin a bit and the days tend to clear up, so you’ve got a better shot at actually seeing the ocean from those cliffs.
Turn it into a longer day
The Cypress Grove loop links into the trail network that circles the whole reserve. String it all together and you’re looking at roughly 6 to 7 miles with around 650 feet of climbing, mostly gentle, with plenty of coves and sea lion barking along the way.
Don’t skip the Whalers Cabin over on Whalers Cove. Chinese fishermen and their families built it in the early 1850s, and it’s the oldest wood-frame building in Monterey County.
The best detail? Six whale vertebrae help hold up the floor joists. Today it’s a small museum covering everyone who’s worked this cove, from Indigenous peoples to Japanese abalone fishermen and Portuguese whalers.
Still have legs left? Our roundup of the best hikes in Monterey has plenty more coastline to cover. And if you’d rather trade trail dust for a glass of wine, these things to do in Carmel-by-the-Sea are just up the road.
Before you go
Entry is $10 per passenger car, and the gates open at 8 a.m. Parking inside the reserve is capped at 150 vehicles, so the park suggests arriving before 9:30 a.m. or after 3 p.m. for a better shot at a spot.
Leave the dog at home on this one, since dogs aren’t allowed anywhere in the reserve, not even inside your car. And don’t stop in the Highway 1 traffic lane to wait for a parking space, as tempting as it is.
Trip tips: grab a rental car to get out here, lock in your hotel before the good rooms are gone, or skip both and book a camper van instead.
So, are you a half-hour Cypress Grove loop person, or are you doing the full lap around the reserve? Tell us in the comments!
Rules and fees change, so always confirm current requirements before you go.
